Tight Aggressive: When to Check and Call

Here's a good page on how and when tight-aggressive players check and call:

- Against overly-aggressive players - When checked to, overly-aggressive players and maniacs tend to bet indiscriminately. They usually bluff their money away. Why bet into a maniac when your opponent will do the betting for you? If you bet out, the maniac may give you credit for a hand and fold (which costs you money on later rounds, if you have a hand).

- On a draw with sufficient pot-odds in a multi-way pot - This commonly occurs when you are in early position with either a straight or flush draw. If there are three or more players still to act behind you, a bet is unlikely to win the pot. You might even get raised. You want to see the next card (or two) as cheaply as possible, although if you can get down to a single opponent, you may have an opportunity to semi-bluff on the turn, or bluff on the river (if the flush fails). However, if three or more players remain in the pot, checking and calling is usually the best strategy.

- On a draw with sufficient implied odds - This means the amount of money does not justify a call at the present time, but you are reasonably sure you will make enough money on later betting rounds if you successfully make your hand.

- Playing against an opponent you've either dominated or intimidated in the past - There are times when you can be reasonably certain an opponent will fold assuming he/she can be persuaded you have a superior hand. This is particularly true when you have a hand of modest strength and are out of position. A check and call on the flop is likely get a free card on turn, since your call might make the player reluctant to bet out again a second time. You not only occasionally get to see cards for free, but your opponent's fear might provide a bluffing opportunity if a scare card comes on board.

- Slowplaying a big hand - If you flop a monster hand, you probably want as many players and as much money in the pot as possible. You certainly don't want to tip-off the strength of your hand to your opponents. Most players that flop a set, the nut flush, or a straight will wait until the turn to check-raise. However, there is a strong counter-argument for betting out with a strong hand and hoping to get raised and so as to trap multiple players in the pot for additional bets. The debate continues about the wisdom of slowplaying big hands.

- In low-limit games - It's usually advisable to check and call if you have a hand of uncertainty (and are up against a very poor player who might be capable of holding anything). An example would be a hand like A-Q and the flop comes K-Q 2. First to act in a head-up situation, it's usually best to just check and call. Folding with second-pair might be too tight a play and check-raising is far too risky, since the player might have a better hand.

Since the preponderance of "ram and jam" hold'em games might have antiquated many of the precepts of tight-aggressive play, these guidelines just begin to scratch the surface. Indeed, there are a multitude of situations in hold'em when checking and calling is a profitable strategy. Knowing precisely which circumstances warrant a check and call -- instead of a bet or raise -- is one of the fundamentals of winning poker.

Playing Against Loose Holdem Players

Here is one person's response to the classic question, "How do I play well against loose players?"

Answer:

When I first started playing poker I read some books available at the time and I tried to apply that knowledge (starting hands) to the games I was in. The games were very similar to the ones you mention above where almost everyone calls preflop. It is frustrating because people are playing so poorly, at least you assume so, and your good cards like AA and KK don't hold up. Only after a lot of time did I realize that certain hands play well in some situations while others don't. AA might be the best money making hand in one game while it is lucky to win at all in another. I can't tell you what the probabilities for each starting hand are to win and I'm not sure it would help you at all if I could supply you with that info. What you need to do to beat those games is to play more cards that do well in what we call volume pots. Volume pots are multi-way pots -- where lots of people are in. You will still play your big cards like AA, KK, AK etc but you'll also throw in a lot of other cards. What you want to play are suited cards that are near to eachother in rank. They don't have to be suited connectors only, like 87s for example. You can also play hands like Q9s, J8s, 86s, etc. Those hands will do well since when you hit with them you'll have a straight, two pair, trips or a flush. One pair rarely wins in those games. I recommend you also brush up some on pot odds. With so many people calling preflop you almost always have the odds to see the turn card (that is if you have a little something to begin with). Normal plays that would be incorrect in other games are correct in these; such as gutshot straight draws, calling for two pair, trying to catch a set on the turn if you hold a pocket pair, etc. So to reiterate, here are some hands that you will want to play (in any position as long as the game is like you mentioned above):

AT offsuit and above
A5s and below
Any pocket pair
Any suited connector
Any suited 2 gap cards (J9s, T8s, 97s, etc)
The larger big 3 gap suited cards (KTs, Q9s, J8s)

You'll play most of the cards to get a good flop (flush or straight draw). Then go from there.

For the second question, I would avoid the unsuited small cards. You can throw them in if you like but I don't think they'll be a big factor in your win; you could just throw them in in late position and in the blinds. I think even in the loosest games they will just break even. You'll already be playing a lot of hands so you need to draw the line somewhere so you won't be in everytime and give back too much.

Super System II

While listening to KROQ yesterday, I heard Doyle Brunson plug his new book, Super System II. From Amazon's website:

[Doyle's]roster of expert collaborators includes:

• Daniel Negreanu, winner of multiple WSOP gold bracelets and 2004 Poker Player of the Year
• Lyle Berman, three-time WSOP gold bracelet winner, founder of the World Poker Tour, and super-high stakes cash player
• Bobby Baldwin, 1978 World Poker Champion and president of Bellagio
• Johnny Chan, two-time World Poker Champion and nine-time WSOP gold bracelet winner
• Mike Caro, poker's greatest researcher, theorist, and instructor
• Jennifer Harman, the best female player in the history of poker and one of the ten best overall
• Todd Brunson, winner of more than twenty tournaments
• Crandell Addington, a no-limit hold-em legend.

One interesting tid bit from the show: Doyle likes Tobey Maguire and Leonardo Dicaprio's style of play.

Chess Torrents

2 torrents of interest to chess afficionados:

1) Chessmaster 10th Edition

2) A DVD rip of Searching for Bobby Fischer

ChessGames.com

Chessgames.com, a database of historical chess games, has good tool for those wanting to learn strong opening moves (and the famous games associated with them).

Click on a move, and you can then see a list of other games that resulted from that move. For example, clicking on 1.e4. and then 2. Bc4 gives you: Diaz Rodriguez Jose Ant vs Maximiano Burgos Manuel, 1994 1-0.

Torrent: World Poker Tour 2004 (All Episodes)

Got 13+ GB free space available? If so, try downloading the 2004 World Poker Tour torrent.

Get it while you can. This torrent will probably die soon:

8 seeder(s), 79 leecher(s) = 87 peer(s) total

Beautiful quote

"You do not control pour opponents in a poker game. You control yourself and adjust your play so that your opponents' excesses become their own undoing." -- Sam Braids (in the PDF mentioned in the previous post)

Starting Hands / Player Types

While reading the PDF included in this torrent, I came across an interesting paper on the starting hands. If you can stomach the math, it's a good read.

Also in the paper, a description of the loose-passive, loose-aggressive, tight-passive, and (the best) tight-aggressive player types:

Playing styles have a big influence on how each player will choose to act in a hand. Playing styles generally fall into one of the following four categories:

Loose-passive players are free with their money, but their actions tend to follow the other players. Loose-passive players enter most hands and call just about every bet, but they rarely bet or raise on their own. Generally, these players are the most profitable people to play against. Beware though, since they play every hand, potentially they can have any hand. It's difficult to know the cards they are playing. While most of their hands are weak, they can surprise you. If the table is full of loose-passive players you can play weaker starting cards since you don't have to worry about pre-flop raises and many players will be in each hand.

Loose-aggressive players are also free with money, but they thrive on action and want to be the center of attention. Loose-aggressive players raise often, even with weak cards. If they act after you, make sure you have a strong hand that justifies calling their expected raise. It's not their hand you have to worry about beating, but other players with strong cards that call their raises. Loose-aggressive players lose lots of money, but if too many of them are at a table, the entire game becomes loose-aggressive. In such a game, there are many pre-flop raises and large pots contested by many players with the flimsiest of hands. Only play with strong starting cards that justify a large preflop expense. Against these players, you'll have large swings in your bankroll, but you don't have to win many pots to come out ahead.

Tight-passive players are followers at the table, but very careful with their money. Tight-passive players typically buy in for a small amount of money and guard it. They seldom bet, rarely raise, and call bets only when they have a great hand. You won't lose money at a table full of these kinds of players, but it's difficult to make much, either. When tight-passive players dominate the table, pots are smaller because few players enter each hand and there are few showdowns. To win money, you need to win many small pots by being aggressive. Bet and raise with marginal cards to intimidate these players out of the hand.

Tight-aggressive players are careful with their money, but when they do play, they seize the initiative. Tight-aggressive players enter few hands, but when they do, they have strong cards. They bet and raise aggressively, forcing the other players to pay dearly if they decide to chase. If you find yourself at a table filled with tight-aggressive players, you should consider switching to another table, especially if you are new to poker. It is easy to find yourself outplayed and your money quickly gone in this kind of game. Study the play of tight-aggressive players since you should aspire to be one.

ChessAndPoker.com Holdem Strategy Guide

ChessAndPoker.com has some good strategy guides for beginner holdem players.

• Tight Theory Hands
• Loose Theory Hands
• Button and Blind Theory Hands
• Missing The Flop
• Hitting The Flop
• How to Play The Turn and River
• Hold'em Summary Chart
• World Poker Tour Review

Interesting Poker Odds

THE RIVER

1.6 to 1
A-K hitting an A or K by the River

1.5 : 1
Q-Q vs A-K (A or K hitting)

1.6 : 1
Hitting 5th card to complete a Flush

2.9 : 1
Completing an Open Ended Straight

2.7 : 1
Three of a Kind improving to Full House

12 : 1Pocket Pair improving to 3 of a Kind after the Flop

33 : 1
Hitting a Backdoor Flush

OTHER ODDS
1.7 : 1
5 Players, there's an A on the flop. Chances a player has an A in their hole.

2.1 : 1
4 Players, there's an A on the flop. Chances a player has an A in their hole.

2.9 : 1
3 Players, there's an A on the flop. Chances a player has an A in their hole.

4.3 : 1
2 Players, there's an A on the flop. Chances a player has an A in their hole.

Lederer's Pre-Flop Strategy

Here's Howard Lederer's pre-flop strategy in no limit Holdem.

First, classify your hole cards as either A, B, C, D, or E.

A: AA, KK, AKs
B: QQ, AK, JJ, TT
C: AQs, 99, AQ, 88, AJ
D: 77, KQs, 66, ATs, 55, AJ
E: KQ, 44, KJs, 33, 22, AT, QJs

If you don't have one of these hands, fold. If you do, then your play depends on your position.

EARLY POSITION:
open: A, B, C
call/re-raise: B
raise a reraise: A

MIDDLE POSITION:
open: A, B, C, D
call/re-raise: B
raise a reraise: A + (QQ,KK)

LATE POSITION:
open: A, B, C, D, E
call/re-raise: (JJ, TT) or C
raise a reraise: A or (QQ, KK)

BLINDS (VS EARLY OPEN)
Raise: A
Call: B or C

BLINDS (VS MIDDLE OPEN)
Raise: A or B
Call: C or D

BLINDS (VS LATE OPEN)
Raise: A, B, or C
Call: D or E

FINAL NOTE:
After a player raises to your right, re-raise with a group A or B hand. After a player has opened, you should fold ALL hands not in group A or B, unless you are in the blinds.

Lederer Torrents

Poker - Secrets of No-Limit Holdem

and

Howard Lederers more poker secrets

Lederer Tip:
Be careful when drawing for a straight or a flush when there is already pair on the board. It's too easy in these situations for your opponent to, say, get a full house -- even if you are drawing live!

Victor Cup Torrents

Two more torrents of interest to poker fans.

Victor Poker Cup Tournament (1 of 2) DVDRip & Poker Client

Victor Poker Cup Tournament (2 of 2) DVDRip & Poker Client.

(I have no idea what the attached poker client program is, nor do I care to learn)

Poker Torrents

Lots of poker-related torrrents on Pirate's Bay. I just watched Phil.Hellmuths.Million.Dollar.Online.Poker.Secrets.2004.DVD5.NTSC-4HM, and boy, what a steaming pile of crap.

Here, I'll save you a half hour. Play only the following hands:

All the time (keep raising and reraising)
AA, KK, QQ, JJ, TT, 99, 88, 77
AK

Majority hands (i.e. play in the right situation, fold when you know you're beat)
66, 55, 44, 33, 22, KQ, suited As

Hold'em Strategy and Hand Groupings

Learn-Texas-Holdem.com
is a good place for beginners wanting to know things such as basic
holdem strategy and differences
between online and regular poker.

Of particular interest is the modified
hand groupings. Sklaskly categorizes them as:

Group 1: AA, KK, QQ, JJ, AKs
Group2: TT, AQs, AJs, KQs, AK
Group3: 99, JTs, QJs, KJs, ATs, AQ
Group4: T9s, KQ, 88, QTs, 98s, J9s, AJ, KTs
Group5: 77, 87s, Q9s, T8s, KJ, QJ, JT, 76s, 97s, Axs, 65s
Group6: 66, AT, 55, 86s, KT, QT, 54s, K9s, J8s, 75s
Group7: 44, J9, 64s, T9, 53s, 33, 98, 43s, 22, Kxs, T7s, Q8s
Group8: 87, A9, Q9, 76, 42s, 32s, 96s, 85s, J8, J7s, 65, 54, 74s, K9,
T8, 43

But Andy (the webmaster) recategorizes them as:

Group 1: AA KKQQ JJ AKs
Group 2: TT AQs AJs KQs AK
Group 3: 99 KTs QJs KJs ATs AQ
Group 4: A8s KQ 88 QTs A9s AT AJ JTs
Group 5: 77 Q9s KJ QJ JT A7s A6s A5s A4s A3s A2s J9s T9s K9s KT QT
Group 6: 66 J8s 98s T8s 55 J9 43s 75s T9 33 98 64s 22 K8s K7s K6s K5s K4s K3s K2s Q8s 44 87s 97s
Group 7: 87 53s A9 Q9 76s 42s 32s 96s 85s J8 J7s 65 54 74s K9 T8 76 65s
54s 86s

Anyone know the rational for the regrouping?

Poker Quotes

"Hold em is to stud what chess is to checkers." -- Johnny Moss

"The guy who invented poker was bright, but the guy who invented the chip was a genius." -- Big Julie

"Last night I stayed up late playing poker with Tarot cards. I got a full house and four people died." -- Steven Wright

"Whether he likes it or not, a man's character is stripped bare at the poker table; if the other players read him better than he does, he has only himself to blame. Unless he is both able and prepared to see himself as others do, flaws and all, he will be a loser in cards, as in life." -- Anthony Holden (from "Big Deal")

"Cards are war, in disguise of a sport." -- Charles Lamb, "Essays of Elia" (1832)

"You call...gonna be all over, baby." -- Scotty Nguyen, during the 1998 World Series of Poker. Down to the final 2 players, he said this to his opponent while he held the best possible hand.

Poker Glossary

If you're new to poker (like me) and are still struggling with the vocabulary, this glossary should help a bit.

Lots of new terms I didn't know, like a "boxed card" (card improperly flipped over in the deck) and "vigorish" (the amount taken by the house, similar, I suppose, to taking a rake).